Odysseus’s Shed

Odysseus’s Shed

So, the shed. It feels like some kind of Greek myth to me – or perhaps a Samuel Becket play. Some great task that never ends – and hardly even begins. The garden’s been going now for two years and for two years we’ve needed a shed and planned for it. We need it for storage, but also for shelter and a place to gather – a centre of the garden and our small community. It will, we hope, have many uses — providing something for everyone — and each one of us has a version of the shed in our head. We will hide our tools and stuff there, but also start a library of interesting books and articles to share and notices to read. It will also be a place for sowing, potting on, drying seeds, dye plants and flowers. It will provide cover to drink cups of tea in/under and our table (which appeared from nowhere) will stand under its overhang so that we can do dye, gardening and craft workshops – and even eat meals from food we’ve foraged. It will be a point from which to view other points and a place where we can put our feet up. It will be a space for activity – and inactivity.

But it hasn’t happened yet. We’ve got spatial narrative designers involved, a carpenter/artist who builds things from reused materials, tweeters, gardeners, volunteers, Good Gym runners and bloggers. After many meetings, we (a combination of  the gardeners’ needs and ideas, Story Storey’s design skills and Joel’s carpentry expertise) came up with a simple design which we can put together ourselves once he’s shown us how. We’ve collected pallets and windows and screws and bits of wood and tools. We made a date and assembled all our disparate parties to dig and saw and deconstruct before we reconstruct. And then the weather came.

An inventory of the tools we need to store.
An inventory of the tools we need to store.

Tools2

Seed Saving

Seed Saving

Nat from the garden and I went on a brilliant seed workshop run by Garden Organic a few weeks ago. With the debate about GM swirling around us (why shouldn’t we breed plants which are disease-resistant or can produce more crops?) it was good to go back to basics and trust our own gardening instincts, expertise and experience – and help increase seed diversity.

 

Pea (Meteor) seeds
Peas are generally self-pollinating. You can save seed from just a few plants and allow the pods to mature and dry before picking.

Seed saving is pretty easy. Farmers and gardeners have been doing it for thousands of years – and by saving seeds from the best plants and the ones which are best adapted to our local environment, we are doing our own bit of genetic modifying; though doing it our way means we’re not subject to patents, unwanted cross-pollination or plants not turning out true. We can also make sure we are diversifying our seed pool. In Europe the seeds we buy have to be certified, which means that older varieties, less popular ones or, perhaps less productive ones stop being produced. By saving our own seed and sowing or swapping them, we keep varieties alive – and can even develop new ones ourselves suited to our local conditions.

Vegetable seeds are highly bred because we want reliable crops. Commercial seeds are often hybrid F1s bred from two plants with particular qualities. One parent might be heavy cropping while the other might be resistant to a particular pest. If you sow seeds from an F1 plant it will revert to one of its forebears and won’t be what you expect at all. At this point I wish I’d paid more attention to the Gregor Mendel pea lesson at school. So rather than go into the science (which I can’t anyway), I thought I would put down some starting points about seed-saving. I learnt a lot more but don’t want to overwhelm with information.

1. Understand how your veg are pollinated as you want to avoid cross-pollination (where pollen from a flower has fertilised a seed from a different plant). this can result in a monster – or, at least, something you weren’t expecting or wanting. Some, like tomatoes, are self-pollinating so you don’t need to worry. Others are insect or wind-pollinated and more likely to cross-pollinate so you might need to isolate those plants or plant only one variety.

2. Avoid inbreeding. Plants will revert to their original version if they inbreed. Everything that cross-pollinates will do this so save seeds from lots of different plants – choosing the best, of course. Twenty plants are recommended, though, of course, this is not always possible because of the lack of space.

3. Plants which won’t cross-pollinate or which doesn’t matter if they do: tomatoes, French beans, peas, peppers, aubergines, lettuce. These are, therefore, the easiest to save seed from.

Broad bean seeds
If you’re going to save seed from broad beans, it’s best to grow only one variety as insects can cross-pollinate.

4. Plants which easily cross-pollinate are spinach, chard, beetroot, sorrel and sweet corn, which are wind pollinated (which is why the GM debate about corn rages)

Carrot flowers.
Carrots are biennial so they flower and set seed in the second year. Choose only the best varieties to take seed from. It is possible to pull up your carrots, store them over winter and then replant in spring, spacing 45cm apart. Insects will cross-pollinate so grow just one variety a year or isolate varieties in fleece cages. Seed is ripe when flower heads turn brown and brittle. Harvest seed over several weeks to maximise seed quality and quantity.

5. Know whether your crops are annual or biennial (flowers and sets seed in the second year). As veg growers the are many plants we don’t let flower because we eat ’em before they have a chance to reproduce themselves, but some are well worth letting go for the spectacle – as well as the seed. Carrots (see picture) are especially beautiful and alliums such as leeks and onions.

6. Don’t choose plants to take seed from with bad qualities, so if your lettuce has bolted, don’t take the decision to leave it to seed – because it’s a bolter! Choose a plant which has characteristics you want to reproduce.

7. You need to dry and store your seeds in conditions that are opposite to growing, so dark, cold and dry.

8. Test your seeds on a damp paper towel to check germination. Some seeds, like parsnips, are only viable for a year. Others will last for a decade.

9. Useful reference books: “Back Garden Seed Saving“, Sue Stickland, “Seed to Seed”, Suzanne Ashworth, Heritage Seed Library seed saving guidelines.